80/20, Bodega Forlong 2023 (Andalucia, Spain)

A lustrous, light, dusty pink to look at, and just a touch cloudy. The nose rings out with the chalk of the Albariza, and this is filled with peach pith, musk stick and ruby grapefruit/pomelo. It smells unprotected, but clearly hasn't caught anything. Lighter and more linear that its sister, 80-20 has more saline sea-dash, candied lemon and citrus rind up front, and gains jasmin, honey, and herbal balm. The finish, run by wild white fruit tannin is a tangle, a riot, a thrill.