Menetou Salon Rouge Hors Serie, Philippe Gilbert 2019 (Loire, France)
“Hors-Série”—which translates roughly to “special-issue”—comes from a parcel of Pinot Noir planted in 1980 by Philippe’s father. Fermentation and aging occur in a large 90-hectoliter tronconic cask, with no sulfur added at all during the elevage (20 milligrams per liter are added just prior to bottling); neither fining nor filtration are employed. “Hors-Série” presents the dizzying heights: lifted, luminous red fruits, exuberant spice (this was vinified with 50% whole clusters), and sizzling, cleansing acidity make for a remarkably kinetic drinking experience. Only 25 cases are available for the US market.