Yesterday we talked about wines from the Gredos mountains west of Madrid and today we head south to Andalucia to the Sierra Nevada mountains near Granada to explore the wild natural wines of Antonio Vilchez of Bodega Naranjuez.
Antonio is a garage winemaker producing about 8,000 bottles a year from organic vineyards almost 3000 feet up in the mountains of the tiny village of Marchal, not far from Guadix. There's a mix of native grapes planted alongside international varieties and he works completely hands off in the cellar with no additions whatsoever. Here's the lineup:
Baco Perez 2017 $25 Named after Antonio's motorcycle mechanic who would drink this wine by the gallon. This is a field blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Vijiriega, Dorodilla and Perruna macerated on the skins and aged in steel for a year before getting bottled unfiltered. This is for the more adventurous Orange wine fans with briny stone fruit and lots of cidery funk.
Prisa Mata 2015 $25 This is Antonio's red field blend of 40% Tempranillo and a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Grenache making up the rest. All co-fermented in steel, then moved to barrel where it ages for a year before getting bottled unfiltered. Wild dark fruit and spice with a leathery, savory edge. Prisa Mata translates to Haste Kills and Antonio only releases this one when he thinks it's ready.